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這家快餐連鎖紅遍全世界,成功的原因不只是那款網紅漢堡

Rachel King 2019年09月13日

盡管每家Shake Shack店的漢堡應該都是大同小異,但人們也不妨礙期待一下偶爾出現的驚喜。

Shack漢堡加薯條,搭配香芋奶昔,Shake Shack馬尼拉新開店面。圖片來源:Kristyn Clark

Shake Shack獲得巨大成功的關鍵之一便是其菜單和食物的一致性,而這個漢堡店也從紐約市麥迪遜廣場的一個小攤發展成了遍布十幾個國家,擁有超過250家店面的國際連鎖品牌。

但Shake Shack在新市場獲得成功的另一大關鍵因素在于,該品牌知道如何迎合當地人的需求。

Shake Shack的烹飪總監馬克·羅薩迪經常在全球旅行,為打造新的菜品進行調研。當Shake Shack準備進入新市場時,羅薩迪都會首先體驗一下當地的高檔餐飲,或至少光顧城市里那些美食愛好者常去的餐廳,以便在當地市場為Shake Shack的菜單創新尋找靈感。

羅薩迪說:“我的主要工作就是通過各種方式,將Shack或那個城市與那里已有的美食文化連接起來。還有一部分工作是確保這些城市或國家Shack漢堡的味道與眾所周知的紐約市Shack漢堡如出一轍。”

One of the keys to Shake Shack’s supernova success has been the consistency of its menu and food as the burger joint scaled from a single stand in New York City’s Madison Square Park to an international chain with over 250 locations in more than a dozen countries.

But another key to Shake Shack’s success in those new markets is knowing how to read the room and catering to what the locals want.

Shake Shack’s culinary director, Mark Rosati, travels the world routinely, researching flavors for creating new menu items. When Shake Shack prepares to enter a new market, Rosati first eats at many of the local fine-dining—or at least foodie-minded—restaurants in town, seeking inspiration for a new spin on the Shake Shack menu in that market.

“What I try to do primarily is find ways of connecting that Shack or that city with the culinary culture that’s already there,” says Rosati. “Part of the job is to make sure that the burger as people know from the New York City area is the same in those cities or countries.”

Shake Shack軟質奶油冰淇淋(concretes)三劍客,拍攝于馬尼拉今年新開店面。圖片來源:Kristyn Clark

在今年的擴張之旅中,Shake Shack近期在馬尼拉、新加坡和墨西哥城新開了多家店面。在馬尼拉,你可以品嘗到當地獨有的柑橘檸檬酸橙汽水;在新加坡,不妨試試椰子香蘭葉飲料,它據稱是備受當地時髦人士追捧的飲品;在墨西哥城,你也可以來一份concrete(該店對“混合類加厚軟質奶油冰淇淋”的稱謂),口味包括糖制檸檬、香料曲奇和當地的香肉果(該甜點出自墨西哥城熱門景點羅塞塔的艾琳娜·雷加達斯之手)

羅塞蒂說:“我會以這種方式來嘗試了解當地的餐飲格局:品嘗街頭小吃和高檔餐飲,以及兩者之間的美食,例如小烘培店,包括夫妻店在內的經典老店,以了解年輕人都喜歡吃什么。通過此舉,我開始了解自己在那所城市所應扮演的角色。每到一個新地方,我們基本上都會這么做。”

羅薩迪于2007年加入Shake Shack,當時Shake Shack還只是麥迪遜廣場的一個獨立門店。如今,該門店依然排著長隊,滿是當地居民和員工以及游客。他親眼見證了公司員工數量在短時間內出現了大幅增長,然而,他回歸了“一致性”這個理念,也借此讓Shake Shack避免了讓很多小公司遭受重大打擊的成長之痛。這種一致性涵蓋每個店面和辦公室使用的培訓材料,以及每日在準備食物時所采用的基本食材。

羅薩迪說:“我們有著一支非常龐大的培訓團隊和供應鏈團隊。他們負責所有的手續,找供應商,制定物品目錄,并搜集整理所有的一些細節信息,這樣,新開店面就會知道上哪訂巧克力,以及如何送達。”

Among Shake Shack’s most recent expansions this year were new locations in Manila, Singapore, and Mexico City. In Manila, you can pick up a calamansi limeade you won’t be able to find anywhere else; in Singapore, look for a coconut-and-pandan-leaf beverage that was reportedly a hit with local tastemakers; and in Mexico City, you can order a concrete (the chain’s term for dense frozen custard with mix-ins) with flavors of candied lemon, spice cookies, and local mamey fruit—a dessert developed by Elena Reygadas of the CDMX hotspot Rosetta.

“That’s how I start to kind of understand their dining scene: Try street food to the fine dining and everything in between—little bakeries, the classic old ones like mom-and-pop shops—to see what the young kids are doing,” Rosati says. “And through that I start to see what my own identity would be like in that city. We’ve done this pretty much everywhere we’ve gone.”

Rosati joined Shake Shack in 2007 in the days of the solo location at Madison Square Park, which still sees lines filled with local residents and workers as well as tourists alike. He’s seen the company’s employee base scale astronomically and simultaneously, but he goes back to the theme of consistency as to why Shake Shack has been able to avoid many of the growing pains experienced by small companies that hit it big. That consistency ranges from the same training materials used at every location and office to the same basic ingredients needed to put out food each day.

“We have a very large training team and a very large supply-chain team,” Rosati says. “They are the ones that do all that paperwork, set up all the vendors, catalog all the items, and put together little information packets so the opening location may know where to order that chocolate from and how it comes.”

烹飪總監馬克·羅薩迪在曼哈頓西村附近的Shake Shack創新廚房。圖片來源:Shake Shack

當強調Shack漢堡和薯條(Shake Shack的主打產品)應該(因此,需要)在所有地方保持統一口味時,羅薩迪表示,菜單仍有把玩和調整的空間,以反映每個新城市當地的烹飪文化。Shake Shack在這一方面的做法是通過與當地大廚和餐館合作開發漢堡和奶昔。為了保持公司的紐約風格,Shake Shack最初開展的合作數量并不多,產品包括與曼哈頓備受歡迎的Levain Bakery共同制作的巧克力屑曲奇。

除了這三個領域之外,Shake Shack一直在與手工藝品牌以及知名大廚合作,例如猶他州的手工藝巧克力制作商Ritual Chocolate,以及米其林指南評定過的香港大班樓所有者——神秘的葉一南。

羅薩迪在談論與廚師接洽合作項目時說:“我的整體行事方式就是,我希望給人一種自然演進式的感受。我一直很喜歡接觸那些我認識的人,這樣雙方的合作關系就會更加友好。我們從來不主動與陌生人聯系。”

羅薩迪是在一位朋友的推薦下去了葉一南的餐廳,他后來稱這是他品嘗過的最好的粵菜。羅薩迪隨后聯系了葉一南,與他碰了面。葉一南也給予了熱情的回應,但他對這家美國休閑快餐連鎖沒有多少興趣。

While stressing that the Shack Burger and fries—Shake Shack staples—are expected to (and therefore, need to) taste the same everywhere, Rosati adds that there is still room to play with and tweak the menu to reflect the local culinary community in each new city. One way Shake Shack has gone about this is through burger and milkshake collaborations with local chefs and restaurants. True to the company’s New York City heritage, Shake Shack’s first few collaborations included a chocolate chip cookie with Manhattan’s beloved Levain Bakery.

Beyond the tristate area, Shake Shack has been working with artisanal brands like craft chocolate maker Ritual Chocolate in Utah and acclaimed chefs such as Danny Yip, the elusive owner behind Hong Kong’s Michelin Guide–reviewed The Chairman restaurant.

“The whole way of going about it, I want it to feel organic,” Rosati says about reaching out to chefs for collaborative projects. “I always like to approach people I know so it’s more of a friendly way of working together. We’ve never cold-called anyone.”

Rosati came across Yip’s food through a recommendation by a friend, and after declaring it the best Cantonese cuisine he had ever sampled, Rosati reached out to Yip for a meeting. Yip replied cordially, but he wasn’t entirely interested in the American fast-casual chain.

羅薩迪與葉一南,為香港地區特別開發的限量Shack漢堡而干杯。圖片來源:Shake Shack

羅薩迪與葉一南見面時向他介紹了有關制作定制Shake Shack漢堡的事情,他說:“我們坐了下來,我向他介紹了‘公司的整體風格,以及公司嘗試在當地經營的方式,而且就像我說的那樣:這就是我們在這個城市所用的原料與烘培食品,其他的一些原材料在全球可能更加知名。’葉一南說:‘不過,我不會做這種事情。我在幾年前曾與一家餐廳合作過,我今年還會與另一家合作,是日本一家叫Den的餐廳,其大廚Zaiyu是我的朋友。’”

非常湊巧的是,3年前,也就是慶祝公司進駐東京首周年慶之前,Shake Shack曾與Zaiyu合作開發了一款漢堡。不用說,此次對話從這里得以延續,而這兩位最終合作推出了一款味道鮮美的限量版Shack漢堡,其中添加了四川辣椒、豆豉醬以及烤牛舌薄片,再放入中國五香粉小火熬制。

羅薩迪說:“我不希望給葉一南一種不自在的感覺,而且給予他充分的自主權。每次與大廚合作,我幾乎都會給他們創造這種環境。我并不希望給他們設定條條框框。我希望他們能夠發揮自己的想象力。我的方式是,提供一個大致的方向,然后告訴他們:‘如果你使用我們的漢堡和我們的小圓面包,你還想再添加點什么?我們甚至還可以討論制作完全不同的漢堡,而且可能是不同的小圓面包。”

“We sat down and I told him, ‘Our whole ethos and how we try to work locally and like I said: Here are the ingredients and bakeries we’re using in your city and also some other ones that might be a little more high profile around the world,’” Rosati says of sitting down with Yip to pitch him about working on a custom Shake Shack burger. “And he goes, ‘Well, again, I don’t do this sort of thing. I worked with one restaurant a few years ago, and I’m actually working with one this year. It’s a restaurant in Japan called Den. The chef, Zaiyu, is a friend.’”

It just so happens Shake Shack had done a burger with Zaiyu three years prior to celebrate the company’s first anniversary in Tokyo. Suffice it to say, the conversation picked up from there, and the pairing ended up in a limited-edition, umami-packed Shack burger featuring Szechuan pepper, a fermented black bean sauce, and a thinly sliced and griddled ox tongue, slow braised in a Chinese five-spice.

“I wanted him to feel comfortable, and I gave him complete carte blanche,” Rosati says. “And anytime I work with a chef, I kind of want that to happen. I don’t want them to feel like they have to fit in a box. I want them to dream. And the way I do that is kind of give a little bit of guardrails and say, ‘You know, if you use our burger and our bun, whatever else you want to do. Hell, we can even maybe talk about a different burger and maybe a different bun.’”

Shake Shack創新廚房內部,這是該公司的研發空間。桌子上擺放著從當地農貿市場采購的水果和蔬菜,它們僅用于西村店面二樓獨享的特色菜品。圖片來源:Shake Shack

其中一些合作的菜品也進入了美國市場,例如起源于日本的黑芝麻奶昔。在紐約市,Shake Shack每天的銷售量達到了700多套。(羅薩迪稱,這款奶昔是聯合創始人丹尼·梅爾和首席執行官蘭迪·賈魯提的最愛。)

當然,并非所有的實驗都以成功告終。

例如,Shake Shack在進駐日本數年前便推出了一款類似的黑芝麻奶昔,羅薩迪曾開玩笑說此款產品可能有點“超前”。這款奶昔融合了黑芝麻與柑橘類水果(橘子味、檸檬味和酸橙味),公司團隊將其稱為“灰色物質”,當時人們認為這款奶昔很有意思,也很酷,但其銷量不如其繼任者。

羅薩迪說:“我認為眼下存在一些追捧因素,而且人們對于嘗試新鮮事物感到好奇。如果這款飲品還十分上相,我想它會更加受到人們的青睞:‘我得嘗一下,并拍下這一時刻。’”“灰色物質”很有可能還不夠上相。

Some of those collaborations have come home—namely a black sesame milkshake that originated in Japan. When it came to New York, Shake Shack sold more than 700 units in one day. (Rosati says that shake is a favorite of cofounder Danny Meyer and CEO Randy Garutti.)

Of course, not all experiments turn out successful results.

For one, Shake Shack had actually released a similar black sesame milkshake years prior to opening in Japan, which Rosati jokes might have been “a little ahead of its time.” Incorporating black sesame and citrus (orange zest, lemon zest, and lime zest), the team called it “Grey Matter,” which they thought was kind of fun and cool—but it didn’t sell as many units as its successor.

“I think there is a little bit of excitement, and people are curious to try something new,” Rosati says. “If it’s photogenic, too, I think that’s really going to make it even that much more like, ‘I need to do this and film that moment.’” Most likely, Grey Matter wasn’t all that photogenic.

一名新粉絲,位于今年新開的新加坡Shake Shack門店。圖片來源:Kristyn Clark

另一個教訓來自于迪拜。羅薩迪和他的團隊發現,果汁吧在當地非常流行,因此他們起草了一份果汁飲品單,按照日期更換的奶昔單以及無酒精雞尾酒。值得一提的是,Shake Shack當地顧問對于向新受眾推出Shake Shack至關重要。在這一案例中,正是由于當地的策劃人的幫助,這支美國團隊可能才得以規避一個昂貴的錯誤。

羅薩迪回憶道:“他對我說:‘太棒了,你做的這個菜單太好了。我喜歡果汁,也喜歡這種按日期更換的方式。但是我們并不需要。例如,我們知道日期,我們會按照日期制作甜點、可口的菜肴。我們并沒有經營果汁。如果我們這么做,我們就沒法做漢堡。我們也不知道該如何經營果汁。奶昔和薯條才是你的強項,也是我們為什么希望你來這的原因。在進入這個市場之后發揮自身的強項就行了。人們會來光顧的,因為這些真的都是好東西。當地并不了解這種食品,也沒法制作,但你們卻是這方面的專家。’”

羅薩迪說,就是在當時,他頭腦中的一盞燈熄滅了,意味著他過分注重于當地讓他感興趣的一些事情。與此同時,這個興奮點偏離了Shake Shack的核心使命。羅薩迪說:“可能我們為迪拜設計的菜單有點過于理想化,但我們依然在按照日期更換菜品,只是更加謹慎了一些。我們還得意識到,我們是一家流淌著美國血液的現代化路邊漢堡店。”(財富中文網)

譯者:馮豐

審校:夏林

Another learning experience took place in Dubai. Rosati and his team observed that juice bars are very popular in the region, so they set about drafting a menu of juices, date-based shakes, and mocktails. It should be noted here that Shake Shack’s local consultants are critical to introducing Shake Shack to a new audience. In this case, the local fixer possibly helped the U.S.-based team avert an expensive mistake.

“He says to me, ‘This is great, man. This menu you created is great. I love the juices, I love the dates. But we don’t need this. Like, we know dates. We can make amazing pastries, savory items with dates. We have this whole juice thing down. We do this. We can’t make burgers. We don’t know how to do that. The milkshakes and fries, like that’s what you guys do and that’s probably why we want you to be here. Just come in, be yourself. People are going to come because this is really good stuff. We don’t know this stuff. We can’t do this, and you guys are the best,’” Rosati recalls.

It was at that point, Rosati says, that a light went off in his mind, denoting he was getting caught up in the local scenes because he found them exciting. At the same time, that excitement deviated from Shake Shack’s core mission. “Maybe that menu for Dubai was a little ambitious, but we still do stuff with dates. It’s just a little more restrained,” Rosati says. “We also had to realize that we are an American-inspired modern-day roadside burger stand.”

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